Conceptually, tuning an engine isn’t too tough. Set the air-fuel ratio to the correct value and set the timing right and the car is tuned. In execution, tuning is much more difficult.
Assuming you have the correct equipment to adequately monitor air/fuel ratio and detonation (which cost several thousand bucks all by themselves), consider trying to tune while you’re driving down the road. The Unichip contains over 53,000 points defined by rpm and throttle position that you have to tune. To do so, you have to stabilize the car at each point so you can set the air-fuel ratio and timing… pretty easy at idle throttle and idle rpm – start the car, keep your foot off of the gas, and set the values. It’s also pretty easy at redline and full throttle – mash the throttle to the floor, hold it there, and let the engine accelerate to redline and set the values while it’s there.
What about 85% throttle and 4200 rpm, and 95% throttle and 2500 rpm, or for that matter 60% throttle and 5350 rpm? How do you exactly define the required throttle position, hold the engine precisely at the desired rpm, and then set the timing and fuel? Only a quality loading Dynamometer can provide the accuracy required to tune the Unichip for your engine. It just can’t be adequately done on the road even if you have some of the correct equipment.
Why should you care about tuning accuracy? You should care because ECU modification and engine control is about more than a “big number.” It’s about a broad smooth curve producing maximum power at every point between idle and redline. It’s about no hesitations, stumbles, or misses when you stomp on the gas. It’s about not blowing up your engine because the tuning values “felt good.” It’s about not living with a check engine light and not having to pull in to the gas station every 50 miles. Performance is about precision, and nothing delivers precision like the Unichip. To use that precision, tuning must be performed by a Unichip tuning technician on a Unichip dynamometer.