Touring Bike Pistons, Best Prices on Touring Bike Pistons

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Touring Bike

Touring Bike Engine

Touring Bike Pistons

We have been offering pistons for various rides and now, we proudly present our new line of motorcycle pistons particularly for touring or cruiser bikes. Touring bike pistons and its components play a big part in achieving a comfortable, worry-free ride experience.

Lighter and stronger motorcycle pistons consequently tolerate higher engine speeds. Secure high-powered engines by installing premium touring bike pistons –made available here. We offer the best prices on touring bike pistons suitable for a large number of touring or cruiser bike applications including Kawasaki, Suzuki, Honda, Harley, Yamaha and others.

Touring Bike Piston Bearings

Touring Bike Piston Clips

Touring Bike Piston Kits

Touring Bike Piston Rings

Touring Bike Pistons are made thinner at the top than at the skirt since high temperatures from combustion cause the top of the Touring Bike Piston to expand a larger amount than the skirt area. For this reason Touring Bike Pistons are measured at the skirt rather than across the crown. Touring Bike Pistons are also cam ground meaning they are oval-shaped because they expand more in the direction of the pins. To get the proper Touring Bike Piston measurement, measure it at its largest diameter. The ideal place to meanure the Touring Bike Piston is near the bottom of the skirt perpendicular to the pin.

A micrometer will help to obtain Touring Bike Piston-size readings that are accurate to less than a thousandth of an inch. With either an inside micrometer or a telescoping gauge, it is then possible to get an accurate reading on the cylinder size. The difference in these two figures is the Touring Bike Piston to cylinder wall clearance.

A cheap and easy, though less accurate, way to determine Touring Bike Piston-wall clearance is to use long, thin feeler gauges (0.0015" to 0.005"). Slip the clean Touring Bike Piston into the clean cylinder along with the feeler gauge placed perpendicular to the pin. Try to fit larger or smaller feeler gauge stips until you find one that will just pull free with your fingers. That gauge represents approximately the amount of Touring Bike Piston-wall clearance you have. Carefully inspect the Touring Bike Piston-pin bearing or bushing area of the connecting rod. If the bearing feels gritty, or the pin appears scored, replace both. If the Touring Bike Piston pin rocks or binds severely in its rod bushing, both the pin and the bushing should be replaced.

Now that you've determined the actual Touring Bike Piston-to-wall clearance and looked up the recommended factory specifications, you have several options:

Option 1: Reinstall the old parts. If the clearance specifications are within recommended factory tolerances, you're safe to simply reassemble the upper end after cleaning and lubricating the parts.

Option 2: Replace the rings only with a new ring set of the same size. If the clearances are toward the loose side of factory recommended tolerances, deglaze the cylinder with a hone, then install new rings.

Option 3: Replace the Touring Bike Piston and rings with a new set of the same size. If the Touring Bike Piston is worn considerably and replacing it with the same size new Touring Bike Piston would decrease the clearance to factory tolerances again, you can save the cost of a bore job (up to $100.00 a hole) by this simple replacement. Again, you must deglaze the cylinder and use new rings.

Option 4: Re-bore the cylinder, then install proper oversize Touring Bike Pistons and rings. To update an engine to peak performance, a bore job is called for. This requires re-machining the cylinder with a boring bar or special hone so it will accept a larger Touring Bike Piston. Always buy the new Touring Bike Piston first and take the Touring Bike Piston and cylinder to the machinist who is to do the job. Without the Touring Bike Piston, he can only guess how far to bore and hone the cylinder. If he has the Touring Bike Piston he can measure exactly.

It's a good idea to clean the fins and spray them lightly with some flat black high-temperature exhaust paint. This helps the engine cool better. Check the Touring Bike Piston-ring end gap before installing rings on the Touring Bike Pistons. If the gap is tight, carefully make a light cut or two across the ends of the rings with a fine file. Remove just enough metal from the end of the ring so the gap will be at or slightly larger than factory specifications. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for locating the end gaps on the Touring Bike Piston.

After assembling the Touring Bike Piston, pin, and rod, be sure that the pin clips are securely seated in the Touring Bike Piston before reinstalling the barrel. Also, don't forget to put on the base gasket before you put on the barrel.

Installing the cylinder assembly over the Touring Bike Pistons requires special care and patience. Don't force anything. The base of the cylinder is tapered to allow the rings to slide into the barrel more easily. Use some clean light oil on the Touring Bike Piston rings and cylinder when reassembling them to guard against scoring when the bike is first started.

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for re-torquing cylinder head studs as aluminum heads distort easily if you don't. Many mechanics take several passes at this first, torquing the nuts to half, then three-quarters, and finally to full torque setting. Be sure to follow the recommended sequence when torquing the head.

If you're working with an overhead-cam engine don't forget to keep the cam chain suspended throughout the installation of both the barrel and the head. Refasten the cam chain only after the cam is properly reindexed according to the technique recommended in the factory service manual.

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